Trip Report: High Sierra Camp Loop

The High Camp Loop in Yosemite National Park is a 48-mile loop through some of the most beautiful terrain in the Park. It passes through the 5 High Sierra camps, which in a normal summer provide backpackers with lodging and food. Most people will backpack this loop in 6 days/5 nights. Both times I have done this loop I have started in Tuolumne Meadows and ran the loop clockwise. I wanted to go unsupported this time, but with COVID the water is turned off at the High Camps and I did not want to take the time to filter water (but I carried a filter in case I ran out). I decided to go self-supported and stash food and water at the Sunrise Trailhead bear boxes, where the loop crosses at mile 30.

A dark start!

I started in Tuolumne Meadows at the Dog Lake Trailhead just before 5am. I ran this loop in 2014 just to see if I could run 50 miles. I finished the loop then in 11 hours 55 minutes, timed by my trusty Timex Ironman at the time. That summer I was not into having GPS on any of my runs because I was just trying to find my love for running again, which worked. This time I wanted to see what I could do. In 2014, I went the “easy” route by avoiding Vogelsang Pass and going down Bunnell Creek instead. I also didn’t take the ¼ mile detour to go down to Glen Aulin. This time I knew I wanted to go over Vogelsang Pass and also go down to Glen Aulin. I was hoping to try to finish the loop in the 10-hour range, but I wasn’t sure if it was possible or not. I always try to set three different levels of goals for big outings. For this one they were: 1) finish the loop, 2) run faster than I did in 2014, and 3) finish in 10 hours. This ensures if one goal is not happening in the day, you can adjust and go with the flow of the day (or at least try to). 

Tuolumne to Vogelsang

I started out in the dark hoping to get to Vogelsang Pass for sunrise. The first two miles were more mentally challenging than I was expecting them to be. Luckily, that early in a 48-mile run, you can tell yourself that it won’t last the whole time. It’s also important to not start too fast, so I took the weird head space as an opportunity to not go out to hard. I made it to the meadows along Rafferty Creek at first light, which instantly made my headspace better. I got into my groove and was maintaining pace for a 10-hour finish. 

Camp 1: Vogelsang

First Light

 

Vogelsang to Merced Lake

I accomplished my goal of getting to Vogelsang Pass for sunrise. It is one of my favorite views in the park, so I was again re-energized. 

Vogelsang Pass

This is the highest elevation of the run, then you head down to Merced Lake, the lowest elevation of the loop. I started down towards Merced Lake. The trail loses over 600 feet of elevation in the first mile. It was steeper and more technical than I remember from the many backpacking trips I’ve done on it. I thought I would be able to run faster through this section of trail to be able to build a time cushion to keep on pace for a 10-hour run. But I started losing time and running slower than what I needed to, but I also knew I needed to run safe. I still hadn’t seen a single person on the trail. When I got to Merced Lake, I saw the first person of the day. At this point I was started to get bummed out that my goal was slowly slipping away from me. 

Merced Lake and Half-a-Rock

Camp 2: Merced Lake

        

 

Merced Lake to Sunrise

Beautiful Morning at Merced Lake

After going from the highest elevation of the day at Vogelsang Pass (10,665) to my just past Merced Lake at 6,980, it was time to climb back up to Sunrise High Sierra Camp at 9,400 feet. This section was MUCH harder than I remember. It had started to get hot and was really sunny. Starting in the dark helped me forget to put sunscreen on as well. I walked when I needed to and ran where I could. At mile 17, I loaded the struggle bus! It all felt hard, physically and mentally. I was having some asthma issues through this section, which also affected my legs. My asthma was also causing me to cough if I started breathing too heavy, which is also very awkward in these COVID times. I also made the realization that I wasn’t going to meet my first goal of a 10-hour finish. I started to contemplate ending my run at mile 30 when the loop crosses HWY 120. I started to challenge myself as to why I thought I should stop. Was it because I didn’t think I could do it at all, or because it just didn’t feel like my day? I determined it was because I just wasn’t feeling my best that day. I started to think about how many people would love to have the ability to run 48-miles through an empty Yosemite Backcountry and that there was no reason to quit just because I wasn’t going to reach my highest goal of the day. When I started to get views of the Cathedral Range it also energized me because it is my favorite range in the park. I saw a total of 3 people in the first 25-miles of the run. I had never and probably will never see the backcountry of Yosemite this empty. It was magical out there.

Instagram vs... Reality

       

 

Sunrise to May Lake

Apparently I can't do math on the run....

Climbing out of Sunrise, I was still in a funk and riding along in the struggle bus. I knew I had another climb before a steep decent to my resupply 5 miles away. I had been eating and fueling as much as possible, but I was starting to hit a wall with my nutrition. So I took out my secret weapon superfood….Redvines. When I was in college I was doing a fun race and ate a breakfast of coffee and Redvines combined with zero hours of sleep the night before and still won the race. Since then, it’s been my go-to for getting out of a funk. About 2 miles later, I got another smile from the view of Mt. Hoffman and Tuolumne Peak. I felt really nauseous during mile 26. I told myself I would only stop at my re-supply at mile 30 if I threw up multiple times before getting to that point. I was able to suppress my nausea and feeling somewhat normal at mile 27. Once I was at the resupply I was able to consume a Mountain Dew and another 200 calories, totaling 500 calories. I sat there for 15-20 minutes to eat/consume it because I came to terms with my goal changing from a 10-hour pace to simply finishing faster than my previous time of 11:55. I refilled my water, put sunscreen on and was pleased with a cloud cover that formed, cooling it down a little. After resting and re-fueling I started to climb to May Lake. I’ve probably been on this section of trail more than the others on this loop, which helped my mental game. I knew exactly what was to come and my resupply and rest helped me feel refreshed.

Ultra-runners are totally sane.....

Secret Weapon...also the only time I
put this shit in my body

May Lake to Glen Aulin

Camp 4: May Lake

Last time I ran this loop, this section felt the hardest so I was mentally preparing to get back on the struggle bus. But I felt great through this whole section! I started to feel like I remembered how to run again. I saw only 3 people and 2 bears through this section and was surprised at how fast I got to Glen Aulin. Glen Aulin was the first High Sierra Camp I visited my first summer working in the park in 2011. It will always hold a special place in my heart. Being there energized me again.

Camp 5: Glen Aulin

Mama Bear and Cub

Glen Aulin to Tuolumne

Looking down the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne from Glen Aulin

Both times I’ve done this loop I forget how much elevation gain there is on this stretch. I left Glen Aulin super excited that I only had 7 miles left of mostly flat. Compared to other trails it is relatively flat, but the 950 feet of elevation gain still kicks your butt 41 miles into a run. When I am at an end of a run like this I tell myself “Anyone can run 7 miles” then “Anyone can run 5 miles” to “It’s just a 5k left, you’ve run so many of those.” You start to coach yourself through the small sections. Then before you know it, you are racing the clock in. I started to realize I could break 11 hours if I kept my paces up, so I kept pushing. 10 hours, 53 minutes and 36 seconds after I started I completed the almost 48-mile loop with 7,746 feet of elevation gain and loss.

I ran 48 miles to get back to where I started from!

I didn’t feel great for a lot of the run. I know I have more to give. I know I can run that distance faster. But knowing I have more to give is really exciting. I still have goals to reach and more potential to tap into. I have recovered fairly well from the run. I got to spend the rest of the weekend with some of my best friends from Yosemite, which was a pleasant surprise. Being with people who will always be my friends and love me just for me was exactly who I needed to be with not only after the run, but after being vulnerable and sharing my story of domestic abuse. Running this 48-mile loop was way easier than surviving day-to-day in an abusive relationship. Driving to this run I listened to a Podcast with Adam Kimble (a Tahoe local who just crushed the Tahoe Rim Trail Fastest Known Time “FKT”). He talked about how your experiences help you dig your well deeper and with each challenge, it adds to your well, giving you more to pull from when times get tough. I kept thinking about this on the run. My well is deep, but mine still has a leak in it. I need to continue to do the work to heal my mind from the abuse it has taken over the years. As I continue to heal, I will only become more unstoppable. The journey I am on would not be possible without my incredible support system. Every one of you inspires me to keep fighting for myself and for my life. Thank you!